Mocha-frosted hermit cookies from Marshall Field’s State Street store. Spice muffins eaten as a treat after Saturday morning dance classes. Dad’s favorite meatloaf and Mom’s layered-Jell-O dessert. We asked readers to tell us which “lost” recipes they most wanted to find, and we were not only flooded with requests for comforting dishes like these, but also with the poignant recollections that came with them.
Hoping to aid in our search, readers described ingredients, flavors and techniques, told stories of family members who loved to cook and restaurant dinners they enjoyed. They talked about the places they first experienced favorite recipes, and how they later lost them (floods, moves, break-ups — even a paper-nibbling mouse).
Requests fell into several categories: most were for dishes from defunct Chicago restaurants, or back-of-package food-company recipes from decades past. Some were for family recipes that were never recorded, recipes once printed in our pages or in other publications.
Sleuthing led to old archives at food companies, restaurants, museums, even private collections in refrigerated vaults. While we’re still searching for some, here is a representative sampling of lost recipes we found.
Kirk Douglas’ tough guy meatloaf
Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 1 hour 30 minutes Makes: 8 servings
Bill Hensge of Wheaton thought he read about this dish on a flight 25 years ago, but the recipe is actually older than that. In 1973, United Airline’s in-flight magazine, Mainliner, started a several-year series of celebrity interviews featuring stars’ favorite recipes. Among them? Frank Sinatra’s fresh tomato sauce, Bob Hope’s lemon pie, Rock Hudson’s frijoles con salchicha and Hensge’s favorite: Kirk Douglas’ Tough Guy Meatloaf. The write-ups were a study in ’70s-speak: “Frank Sinatra is a singer-swinger extraordinaire who surrounds himself with beautiful women … ” But what fun! Douglas’ favorite meatloaf, we are told, was made by his German cook Fifi, because his wife refused to let him cook. The loaf included beef, veal, pork and bacon. Douglas liked it with nutmeg-seasoned mashed potatoes on the side.
1 pound each: ground beef, veal, pork
1 onion, finely chopped
3 tablespoons minced parsley
2 eggs
2 tablespoons each: flour, bread crumbs
1 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 teaspoon each: paprika, dried oregano, dried thyme
6 ounces V-8 juice
3 strips baconHeat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients except bacon in large bowl. Mix well. Place meatloaf in ungreased 9- by 5-inch loaf pan, pressing down so that there are no air pockets. Place bacon on top. Bake 1 ½ hours.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 317 calories, 53% of calories from fat, 18 g fat, 7 g saturated fat, 110 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 31 g protein, 656 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Marshall Field’s hermit cookies with mocha frosting
Prep: 25 minutes Cook: 12 minutes per batch Makes: 4 dozen
Chicagoans still mourn the conversion of Marshall Field’s to Macy’s. From myriad reader requests we received, it looks like baked goods from store’s restaurants and bake shops are among the most-missed elements. Readers Ruth Mendoza-Pavlik of Plainfield and Patty Anne Formusa of Melrose Park each wrote in search of Marshall Field’s hermit cookie. Somewhat a signature for the department store, the 3 ½-inch, nut-studded molasses cookie was spread with mocha frosting. The recipe, from 1948, changed little during the more-than-40 years it was featured. The recipe called for inverted sugar, a fine sugar used in many bakeries. We just used granulated.
1 teaspoon baking soda
3 tablespoons buttermilk
2 sticks (1 cup) butter
1 and 1/3 cups granulated sugar
2 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/3 cup molasses
4 cups cake flour
1 teaspoon each: nutmeg, cinnamon, salt
1/2teaspoon ground cloves
1 cup nuts, chopped
1/2 cup each: currants, raisinsMocha icing:
5 tablespoons butter
3 cups confectioners’ sugar, sifted
2 tablespoons Dutch process cocoa
1/8 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons hot coffeeHeat oven to 375 degrees. Dissolve soda in buttermilk in a small bowl; set aside. Gradually cream butter and sugar together in a separate bowl; beat well. Add eggs and vanilla to sugar mixture; beat well. Add molasses and buttermilk mixture; beat well.
Sift together flour, nutmeg, cinnamon, salt and cloves. Mix dry ingredients to wet mixture. Mix in nuts, currants and raisins. Drop dough by heaping tablespoon onto greased cookie sheet. Bake 12-15 minutes per batch. Cool on wire rack.
For frosting, cream butter, gradually adding confectioners’sugar, cocoa and salt. Add hot coffee. Beat until creamy. Spread thin coating of mocha icing on hermits.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 171 calories, 35% of calories from fat, 7 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 22 mg cholesterol, 26 g carbohydrates, 2 g protein, 87 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Bob Chinn’s Asian-style steamed fish
Prep: 12 minutes Cook: 8 minutes Makes: 4 servings
Reader Mits Yamada of Chicago was a big fan of the steamed fish with black bean sauce, at Bob Chinn’s parents’ Chicago restaurant, New Wilson Village, and has missed it since the restaurant closed several years ago. As it turns out, the dish lives on. After New Wilson Village, brothers Bob and Wally Chinn served the fish at Kohala Terrace, their (now-closed) Polynesian concept in Northbrook. When Bob left Kohala to open his namesake restaurant in Wheeling — now one of the top-grossing seafood restaurants in the country — he agreed to a 15-year moratorium on selling any Chinese dishes, as a competitive courtesy to his brother. When the dish finally moved to Bob Chinn’s menu, it became — and has remained — his top-selling fish entree. Chinn says the key is using scrupulously fresh fish. Halibut, grouper or sea bass work well. Serve this simple dish with white rice. Use low-sodium soy sauce if you like.
Sauce:
1 cup soy sauce
1/4 cup sugar
2 1/4 teaspoons each: sesame oil, sherry
Pinch white pepperFish:
4 fillets (7 ounces each) fresh fish, such as halibut, grouper, sea bass
1/4 cup chopped fresh ginger root
2 tablespoons chopped each: Chinese dried black beans, Chinese dried black olives
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1/4 cup chopped cilantro
3 green onions, cut into thin stripsFor sauce, whisk together all ingredients until sugar is dissolved. Set aside. Place fillets in the top of a steamer over almost boiling water; cover each with a thin layer of ginger, dried beans and olives. Lightly sprinkle each fillet with cornstarch.
Cover; steam until fish almost flakes when tested with a fork, 9-10 minutes. Place each fillet in shallow bowl. Whisk about 2 tablespoons of the steaming water into the reserved sauce. Top each fillet with about ¼ cup of the sauce. Garnish with cilantro and green onion.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 360 calories, 23% of calories from fat, 9 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 134 mg cholesterol, 25 g carbohydrates, 46 g protein, 4584 mg sodium, 2 g fiber
Jacky’s Bistro roast chicken with vegetables
Prep: 25 minutes Marinate: 4 hours Cook: 65 minutes Makes: 4 servings
Chef Jacky Pluton left Jacky’s Bistro years ago, but his name is still attached to the Evanston space. Relaunched as Jacky’s on Prairie recently, the restaurant now has chef Jonadab Silva and owner David Lipschutz at the helm — both of the North Shore’s venerable vegetarian restaurant, the Blind Faith Cafe. Silva is from Montreal and says he’ll stay true to French techniques at Jacky’s, featuring daily meat and vegetarian tasting menus, but plans more world cuisine and game dishes. Upon request, Silva will revisit guests’ favorites, such as this classic asked for by Evanston reader Jane Perisho.
Marinade:
3/4 cup Dijon mustard
1/4 cup honey
2 tablespoons herbes de Provence
Grated zest and juice of 1 each: lemon, orangeChicken:
1 whole chicken (3 to 4 pounds)
2 teaspoons kosher salt
Fresh cracked black pepper
4 cloves garlic
3 each: thyme sprigs, rosemary sprigsVegetables:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 pound red potatoes, skin-on, quartered, roasted
5 ounces white button mushrooms
1/2 teaspoon salt
Fresh cracked black pepper
1/4 pound each, blanched: green beans (preferably haricots verts), baby carrots, fresh or frozen peas
1 teaspoon herbes de Provence, plus more for garnish
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tablespoon each: butter, chopped chivesCombine mustard, honey, herbs and lemon and orange zest and juice in a small bowl. Cut remaining lemon and orange shells into 4 pieces; place in a large bowl. Add ¼ cup of the mustard marinade, garlic cloves, thyme and rosemary sprigs. Spoon into cavity of the chicken.
Truss chicken with cotton twine. Rub with 1 teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste.
Coat chicken on all sides and under the breast skin with remaining marinade. Marinate in the refrigerator 4 hours or overnight.
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Transfer chicken to roasting pan; roast until meat thermometer inserted in thigh reads 165 degrees, about 65 minutes.
Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil; fry potatoes, turning once, until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Add mushrooms; season with ¼ teaspoon of the salt and pepper to taste. Cook about 8 minutes. Add green beans, carrots, peas, herbes de Provence, garlic and butter. Cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Season with remaining ¼ teaspoon salt and pepper to taste. Add chives. Transfer to heated serving platter. Place chicken on top of vegetables. Pour juices from roasting pan over all. Sprinkle with herbes de Provence.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 611 calories, 49% of calories from fat, 33 g fat, 9 g saturated fat, 141 mg cholesterol, 31 g carbohydrates, 46 g protein, 1512 mg sodium, 5 g fiber
La Maison de Bonbon’s hot fudge
Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 20 minutes Makes: 3 cups
French creams — dreamy little chocolate squares richer and creamier than fudge — were made in big copper pots at La Maison de Bonbon in Forest Park starting in 1921 when it was operated as Steger’s Confectionary. Because the main ingredients (bittersweet chocolate and cream) are the same required for hot fudge, one-time owner Carl Schwebel used to make hot fudge topping for ice cream fountain creations, such as the “Fudgy Wudgy” that Oak Park reader Karen Baldwin recalls from her high school days. Current chef-owner Timothy Shanahan still sells French creams along with chocolates and restaurant pub fare, and has just relaunched the Fudgy Wudgy.
1 pint whipping cream
1/2 cup packed dark brown sugar
8 ounces finely chopped bittersweet chocolate
2 ounces finely chopped milk chocolate
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 teaspoon creme de cacao liqueur, optionalHeat cream to a boil in a saucepan over high heat. Reduce heat to low; simmer until reduced by half, 20 minutes. Add sugar; stir until dissolved. Remove from heat. Add chocolate; whisk until smooth. Whisk in butter. Stir in vanilla and liqueur if you like. Serve over ice cream.
Nutrition information
Per serving tablespoon: 80 calories, 71% of calories from fat, 7 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 16 mg cholesterol, 6 g carbohydrates, 1 g protein, 5 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
The Berghoff’s crabmeat au gratin
Prep: 20 minutes Cook: 35 minutes Makes: 10 servings
Rich and creamy seafood gratins had their heyday in the ’60s and ’70s. One best-loved example recalled by Chicago reader Roberta Fireman was the crabmeat au gratin from The Berghoff restaurant. “The recipe was developed by one of our former chefs, who was Swiss,” said Jan Berghoff, former owner of the historic restaurant that her daughter Carlyn now runs as the Berghoff Cafe. Served only on Fridays, the dish was popular from the 1950s through the mid-1970s when increases in crabmeat prices and changes in diners’ eating habits made it prudent to remove it from the menu.
1/2 cup butter
1/3 cup flour
1 1/2 cups whipping cream
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon ground mustard
1/2 pound sliced mushrooms
2 green onions, chopped
1/2 cup dessert wine, such as Sauternes or sherry
1 tablespoon chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
3 egg yolks, slightly beaten
1 cup grated sharp Cheddar cheese
1 pound crabmeat
Grated Parmesan cheese, bread crumbsHeat oven to 350 degrees. Melt ¼ cup of the butter in a saucepan over medium heat; slowly stir in flour. Cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Stir in cream, salt and mustard. Cook, stirring, until thick, 4 minutes. Set aside.
Melt remaining ¼ cup of the butter in a large skillet; add mushrooms and onions. Cook until mushrooms are browned, 3 minutes. Stir in wine; cook to reduce by half, 3 minutes. Stir in parsley. Combine this mixture with the cream sauce. Stir a small amount of cream sauce into the egg yolks in a small bowl; stir egg yolks into remaining cream sauce. Cook 5 minutes; let cool. Stir in Cheddar cheese and crabmeat.
Divide mixture among buttered small ramekins. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bread crumbs to taste. Bake until beginning to brown, about 20 minutes.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 430 calories, 74% of calories from fat, 35 g fat, 21 g saturated fat, 250 mg cholesterol, 7 g carbohydrates, 20 g protein, 771 mg sodium, 0 g fiber
Phil Smidt & Son frog’s legs and tartar sauce
Prep: 15 minutes Cook: 5 minutes Makes: 8 servings
From 1910 until it closed in 2007, Phil Smidt & Son of Hammond, Ind., was the place Chicagoans went for frog’s legs and parsleyed tartar sauce. At its heyday, Smidt’s served 2,000-plus pounds (35,000 pairs) of the legs and 12 gallons of tartar sauce a month. A little history: Original owner Smidt bowed out of the business in 1976 and bequeathed the restaurant to Calumet College. For four years, Mike Probst managed Smidt’s for Calumet. Probst then bought the restaurant in 1980 and operated it through 2000. With Phil Smidt’s closing, the name and rights to the restaurant went back to Probst who is talking to potential buyers about relaunching the concept in the Chicago area. To satiate many readers’ frog’s-leg cravings in the interim, Probst agreed to share Phil Smidt’s original recipe. Order frog’s legs from your local fish store.
Tartar sauce:
1 small bunch Italian flat-leaf parsley, chopped
1 cup sweet dill pickles
1/2 onion
2 cups mayonnaiseFrog’s legs:
Butter-flavored cooking oil, for frying
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons potato flour, optional
1 1/2 teaspoons seasoned salt
2 pounds frog’s legs, the smaller the better
SaltCombine parsley, sweet pickles and onion in a food processor. Pulse until finely chopped. Transfer to a piece of cheesecloth; wrap. Squeeze out as much liquid as possible. Combine parsley mixture and mayonnaise in a bowl; mix well.
Pour 1 inch of oil into a cast iron skillet; heat to 375 degrees over high heat. Mix flours and seasoned salt in a shallow dish. Place frog’s legs in flour mixture; coat thoroughly, shaking off any excess. Fry in hot oil, turning once, until golden brown, 4-5 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Serve with tartar sauce.
Nutrition information
Per serving: 496 calories, 69% of calories from fat, 37 g fat, 5 g saturated fat, 97 mg cholesterol, 10 g carbohydrates, 28 g protein, 571 mg sodium, 1 g fiber
Looking for more lost recipes?
Freelance writer Monica Kass Rogers has launched lostrecipesfound.com to find and feature lost recipes home cooks request, and the stories that go with them. Other helpful tools for recipe sleuthing include the Web sites of most major food companies and online recipe search engines, as well as library cookbook collections and book sales (old church and ladies’ guild compilations can be gems). And while books do go out of print, some old classics, such as “The Joys of Jell-O,” can still be purchased at amazon.com and other online booksellers.
